Monday, January 31, 2011

Heading to the Rhone wreck

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Sugar Plum's outboard went overboard

They did not take their 20hp four stroke heavy outboard out of the dinghy because it's very heavy for the two of them so they did the passage to Roadtown, with big waves towing the dinghy with the motor and it went overboard! So they had to row among the ferries to do customs. They joined us in Norman and we put our 8hp on their big dinghy, so that we could all fit and it worked really well. We had dinner one night at the restaurant in Norman and last night we brought our dinner over to their boat and played cards again. I played with Sandra and they won ( but even Juan was doubtful of their alleged victory) but they were very happy and Sandra and I of course and as always, kept the moral high ground and graciously let them gloat!!
Today they went off to St Thomas to collect another outboard and we are sailing East. Not to sure where to, but who cares??
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Saturday, January 29, 2011

Sunset in Norman Island

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Sunset in Norman Island

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Paradise

Nice reef for Sandra to start snorkelling. You could swim from the beach with fairly calm waters. The ride from Charlotte Amalie however was everything but calm though, 20 knot winds and six+ rollers coming against us but Sandra loved it!
Sugar Plum was waiting for us when we arrived. We went snorkeling together and in the evening we took the food over to their boat. Juan barbecued and it turned out really well.
After dinner we played cards (Truco), Juan and I against Sandra and Justo (Claudia did not play) and we had a lot of fun! Of course Juan and I ended having the most fun because we won!
Today bright and early we weighed anchors to make sure we would get a mooring ball in Little Lameshur Bay where there are only 4 and it's gorgeous.
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Friday, January 28, 2011

Sugar plum's crew approaching

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Back in business

I have spent the last two days catching up with my sister. If you could lose weight just by talking I would be in great shape by now! We had decided to spend Tuesday night in Crown Bay Marina to make it easier for her because the lovely anchorage by the airport had no dinghy dock
Our other Uruguayan friends in Sugar Plum were going to meet us also on Wednesday but the passage from Fajardo was rough and they decided to stay in Culebra. This meant they would only get to St. Thomas on Thursday.
Since we had to wait for them we dinghied to Charlotte Amalie and walked around. When they finally arrived they could not anchor in Crown Bay so they went to Charlotte Amalie instead. So Sandra got to see the bay by dinghy and by boat. By dinghy it was more exciting because we had the hydroplane land very close, too close to us in factn twice. The second time we actually had to go as fast as we could to shore to avoid it!
Justo (Sugar Plum) took us to lunch in the large new Marina on the East side of the Bay and then to dinner in a very nice restaurant on the West end. We told Sandra not to get used to this, our life on the boat is far more frugal!
Today we left at eight and are heading to St john. We were originally going back to Lameshur Bay while Sugar Plum was going to Tortola but they decided to spend the night in St John and asked us to join them in Rendez Vous. Bay which is their favorite. It's just a mile or so before Lameshur so we'll do it. The waves and the wind are coming against us, six footers but Sandra discovered she does not get seasick and actually loves it!
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Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Lunch in st john

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New destinations

We are going back to honeymoon beach on St. John so that we can dinghy into Cruz Bay and clear US immigration there, it will be much easier than going into St. Thomas, I hope. We never checked out of the BVIs so I also hope they won't make a hassle when we clear in again once my sister arrives.
Our plans are still up in the air. We know we want to sell Faraway and we thought we were going back to the US with it, but we have a few balls in air that we have to square away  - I am mixing metaphors, I know - but we will see.
Right now I just want to enjoy these two weeks, and whenever and wherever Ana and Armando come to visit, (Anegada, St. Croix, Vieques, Culebrita are all within reach), and be back in town in March even though I am still homeless.

Monday, January 24, 2011

Safely moored in Bitter End

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Hello again Virgin Gorda

Same wind, same waves, same current, only this time they were all running with us so instead of 16 hours it will have been 11. Big difference!
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Sunday, January 23, 2011

Ready to go!

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Full circle!

Two weeks later, again anchored in the Bay of Marigot! The engine by the way, still leaks, but yet in other places!
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Jeremie!

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Au revoir marina Fort Louis

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New friends

We spent the afternoon yesterday with great neighbors in the marina, denizens of the marina and St. Martin, one married to a Venezuelan and a Brazilian friend of hers who has lived in the Caracas for over 20 years. We spent the whole day in their boat talking, eating (lobster and bourou - South African sausage, great) and drinking wine.
We learned a lot about the island we did not know, for example, the baguettes we have been enjoying come frozen every morning directly from Paris via Air France. Everything that has its price regulated has to come from France because they can't compete! So that explains the wonderful food and the cheap prices. Forget market economy! I love subsidized baguettes, cheese and paté!
Today we are getting ready to leave the marina. We have filled our tanks with water, we will need to get fuel and then go out and anchor in Marigot Bay to be able to leave bright and early tomorrow.
The mechanic came yesterday and Juan was very pleased. Apparently we have no more leaks!! Juan said he was careful and efficient. We just have to keep our fingers crossed now for the weather to hold so that we can have a comfortable passage to Virgin Gorda.
We are also meeting some friends from Annapolis for dinner tonight so we can say goodbye to St. Martin in style!

Saturday, January 22, 2011

Getting ready

Faraway is looking good with its new coat of varnish and I left Juan and the mechanic trying to figure out the leaks. The weather reports all continue to show good conditions on the Anegada passage for Monday, 5 foot waves, which means they will probably be 7 but fair enough. My sister arrives on Wednesday in St. Thomas so that gives us plenty of time to arrive and get organized.
The weather for the next few days after she arrives promises to be mild so we should have a good time swimming and snorkeling and working off all the croissants.
Today is market day in Marigot and although we had fish last night I think I will give the fish market a go. I am always intimidated at fish markets, that must be the reason we have not yet tried Christ and Elise's fishing gear! We are afraid it may work and then what do we do with the fish!

Friday, January 21, 2011

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Just for Tom

We have not been bathing in the hot tub or in the pool, but saunas we've had! Instead of going on a ferry to Saba, we took our dinghy and our laundry and motored to the Dutch side of the island. Through a bridge on Marigot Bay and then across the lagoon. We visited two chandleries! (Chandleries for me are only outshone by hardware stores! Or rather acastillages, I also get to learn very useful French words)
We then started to look for a self service laundry, really hard to find. Most places you have to leave your laundry and they have it ready the next day. If I had beautiful linens I wouldn't mind, because they are not even more expensive but as it is....
We finally found one near the Supermarket. I put all my laundry in a big washer that cost 9 euros, only we did not have enough coins. Juan went to the supermarket and they wouldn't change the money. So I took all the laundry out. He then sees a bank across the bridge and tells me to put the laundry back. I put only half the load in, just in case. He came back with the euro coins that had to be put in a big box with numbers. The machines had prices and numbers (all different prices of course not just because they are French, but because they are all different sizes) so what do you press? the 9 for the 9 euros or the 4 for the machine? None worked. But a kind lady explained to us we first had to lock the machine and voila!! To dry them we had to fork out 8 euros!
We then went to the supermarket and loaded up on all sorts of pates and cheeses
And the most delicious ham and saucissons! Of course we then had to load the dinghy and squeeze in between the laundry and the shopping bags and motor back to the marina, trying to protect the baguettes and the laundry from the waves!
After a short nap, we sanded the wood to be able to put another coat of varnish! To make it even more exciting tomorrow morning we are having a mechanic come over at 8 to look at the leaks in the injectors. I shall repair to the boulangerie and try the internet between croissant and croissant.
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Thursday, January 20, 2011

First coat

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Back in the marina

This was yesterday, or the day before, today sanding and varnishing! Tomorrow maybe we'll take a ferry and go to Saba, Saturday another mechanic will have a go at our old leaky motor.
We left St. Barths and its rolly rolly rolly anchorage. The island is beautiful but not boat friendly. The anchorages are all rolly. On our way out we stopped at Ile Fourchue, nice, not so rolly, rocky and deserted. Ant then back to St. Martin. A lovely day, good breeze but humongous seas. Juan's back reacted badly to the roll, so tomorrow he could hardly move. To make it better he is sanding and varnishing! What a life of leisure!
I cleaned, re organized the fridge (fiftieth time) and came to the Bistro de la Mer to use their internet. I have now ordered a pizza to take back. Expensive price to pay for the net. We believe we will be sailing back to the Virgins on Monday when the weather forecasts seem milder. The Anegada passage is 75 miles and the waves come from every which way, since we will be going with the wind we hope to make it faster than last time!

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Wednesday, January 19, 2011

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Back in st martin
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Not a commercial cruiser

Probably large family!?!
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Anchors a weigh!

Good bye St. Barths and good riddance to the rolly anchorage. Now ile Fourchue. More to come.
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Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Sunset over St Barthelemy

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Oohh la la! C'est dure cette vie!!

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Electric Car Adventure

Cars were expensive, scooters were dangerous so we chose an electric car to go gallivanting around the island. Lots of steep climbs and hair raising curves but the little car has taken it so far. We have to stop at midday at a restaurant - recommended by the rental office- so that we can plug it in. Beautiful and forbidding scenery, very few places to anchor and no marinas. But beautiful houses with beautiful views. Very, very windy. Hopefullly tomorrow we'll be able to leave.
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Monday, January 17, 2011

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Rain!
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Juan sacdo fotos, yo no me anme, ahora no puede bajar
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Veja o nome do restaurante

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Shell beach, st barths

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Near death experience on the dinghy, or almost

Yesterday we decided to visit Anse de Colombiers which is the other viable anchorage on the island. We are in Anse de Corossol which is considered part of Gustavia, and they charge you to anchor here, not a lot but still, just to anchor. And it's a really rolly anchorage. We are about a mile out from Gustavia and two from Colombiers in the opposite direction so we decided to dinghy over there. The seas here are always rough, and yesterday was a mild day. To get there you have to cross a passage between large rocks that looked tricky on the way in but we saw a dinghy coming out and we went in. Large waves but we somehow managed it. The anchorage is lovely as well as the beach and there is a path to go up the cliff where the views are stunning. We stayed a while but both worried because we knew now we went against the waves. Even landing the dinghy was rough. So we carefully chose the moment in a lull between waves to climb onto it and that went well. I threw myself inside the dinghy, we put the engine in the water, I turned it on and juan jumped in. Then we carefully edged toward the passage. It looked bad, but the alternative of going around was also bad because the waves were high and it would be much, much longer. So we both put on our life jackets, I sat on the dinghy floor and off we went. It was rough but of course we made it through. It gave us such a fright though, that Juan didn't let me take off my life jacket until we got to the boat.
In the evening we decided to have dinner in town. Gustavia is in fact very lovely, but obviously Sunday night it's not its best day. We only found two restaurants open and they did not look too inviting. With dozens of mega, mega yachts around it you have to wonder where are all those people? I guess dining on their boats in the rolly anchorage which is what we ended up doing.

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Sunday, January 16, 2011

Closer now!

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Fw: Another nasty passage

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-----Original Message-----
From: estelaz@aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2011 22:46:42
To: Blog<estelaz1.zingarofaraway@blogger.com>; Joanna Zaffaroni<joanna.zaffaroni@gmail.com>
Reply-To: estelaz@aol.com
Subject: Another nasty passage

Juan woke up better today, the engine did not seem to be having any fits or leaks so at around ten we weighed anchors and headed to St. Barts. We had chosen to go to the North of St Martin so that with an east wind we could sail all the way to St Barts. And sail we did. The wind was 17 to 20 but the seas were big, 9 feet but every 8 seconds or so It took us almost 4 hours to make the 17 mile ride. But we made it. After some debate with Juan as to where to anchor - I would have preferred a more secluded bay at the tip of the island but Juan chose to come to Gustavia so we could do the clearance and not worry about that again. We anchored in 22 ft right ahead of a fleet of enormous mega yachts and a hundred yards in front of Isabel, Senator Kerry's sailboat We saw him in town while we were doing the paperwork.
Gustavia is very pretty, a mixture of Punta del Este and Buzios, although I must confess I still prefer Buzios. I got a bit dizzy on the trip here and that maybe clouding my judgment so I will reserve my opinion until tomorrow or Monday, after we have been to Anse des Colombiers. We also met in town three Canadians who were our neighbors in the marina who anchored there and they say it's very beautiful.
The boat misbehaved again. Since we did not have the engine on it chose to take in water. Juan has a through hole inside his locker which he is hoping to use for the air conditioning. We had already had a leak there but he thought he had solved the problem. Since we were heeling hard to starboard, where the hole is, all the trip, we took in water and got his shoes and some of the clothes wet, including the foul weather gear. We put it to dry around the boat, we hope not to get booted from the anchorage by the fashion police!
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Fw: Anchorage in Anse de Corossol

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-----Original Message-----
From: estelaz@aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 12:43:53
To: Upload photos<areal265mizen@m.facebook.com>; Blog<estelaz1.zingarofaraway@blogger.com>
Reply-To: estelaz@aol.com
Subject: Anchorage in Anse de Corossol


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Anchorage in Anse de Corossol

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Saturday, January 15, 2011

Another nasty passage

Juan woke up better today, the engine did not seem to be having any fits or leaks so at around ten we weighed anchors and headed to St. Barts. We had chosen to go to the North of St Martin so that with an east wind we could sail all the way to St Barts. And sail we did. The wind was 17 to 20 but the seas were big, 9 feet but every 8 seconds or so It took us almost 4 hours to make the 17 mile ride. But we made it. After some debate with Juan as to where to anchor - I would have preferred a more secluded bay at the tip of the island but Juan chose to come to Gustavia so we could do the clearance and not worry about that again. We anchored in 22 ft right ahead of a fleet of enormous mega yachts and a hundred yards in front of Isabel, Senator Kerry's sailboat We saw him in town while we were doing the paperwork.
Gustavia is very pretty, a mixture of Punta del Este and Buzios, although I must confess I still prefer Buzios. I got a bit dizzy on the trip here and that maybe clouding my judgment so I will reserve my opinion until tomorrow or Monday, after we have been to Anse des Colombiers. We also met in town three Canadians who were our neighbors in the marina who anchored there and they say it's very beautiful.
The boat misbehaved again. Since we did not have the engine on it chose to take in water. Juan has a through hole inside his locker which he is hoping to use for the air conditioning. We had already had a leak there but he thought he had solved the problem. Since we were heeling hard to starboard, where the hole is, all the trip, we took in water and got his shoes and some of the clothes wet, including the foul weather gear. We put it to dry around the boat, we hope not to get booted from the anchorage by the fashion police!
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Gustavia, st barts

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Anse de Corossol, st Barts

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St

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Friday, January 14, 2011

PS

Yesterday we left the propane bottle at 8 am in budget marine thinking we would be able to pick it up in our dinghy in the afternoon but decided to walk instead and take a taxi on the way back. Only Juan asked me if I was taking money and I said yes, well maybe no, well you take it. And he just heard yes. We stopped at the supermarket and realized we did not have money for the taxi. So we picked up the bottle, each one side, and walked all the way to the marina, at least two miles, rumbling and mumbling. We think this may have hurt Juan's back.
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Plane landing between the masts

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Out of the marina

We managed to check out of the marina and of Marigot, having paid in advance for the fuel which you get at the pump and pay at the office - a mile away. When we were getting ready to leave the guys that help you get out came over to say there was a big boat at the fuel dock with a problem and we would not be able to fill up until two. So we arranged that we would have the credit and left. We left today because the was supposed to calm down. We clocked 27 knots. When we were leaving the dock Juan did something to his back and can hardly move. If this were not enough after we had anchored in Grand Case, three miles to the North of Marigot, he opened the engine and isaw that t had leaked a lot of fuel. It was one of the hoses. He replaced it and now there are no more leaks anywhere but... The engine accelerates for no reason. We won't think about it until tomorrow.
The anchorage is lovely but it's blowing quite hard, we are not going to be able to go ashore because Juan's back is very sore and getting the dinghy down and the engine plus the bumpy dinghy ride is not going to help. So we'll just chill here and tomorrow we'll head for St. Barts. We came to the North of the island hoping we can actually sail all the way to St Barts which lies southeast of us. The wind is supposed to be due East but we don't believe the forecasts anymore!
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Thursday, January 13, 2011

Pelo nuevo

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Errands, wind and rain

We kept the car one more day to run our errands. We went all around the island looking for propane with no success. We finally decided to bring it  today to Budget Marine where you drop it and pick it up in the afternoon. We'll have 
to come by dinghy. I also had my hair cut a little, by a hairdresser that looked 
a lot like Lincoln, even the beard. When we were leaving the marina in the 
afternoon I saw a couple coming from the next pier and said hello like you 
always do when you are in a marina. When we came back with our groceries and my new hair we met them again and Juan recognized them (I could only think about my new hair). They were John and Teresa Kerry. They have the most beautiful sailboat in the marina. We had already checked it out before they arrived. They named it Isabel. Juan says his appreciation for Kerry has grown exponentially given his choice of sailboat!
We return our little Kia today and maybe we'll leave the marina to go back to 
Marigot Bay. 
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wind and rain

I am still having problems posting with my bberry, no internet and no bberry it really is bad. Below is my post from yesterday.

As expected today is even worse than yesterday so I am glad we did the touring 
part yesterday and left the errands for today (propane, supermarket). We've 
pretty much given up on the electrician, they are all very busy this week.
We went all around the island, to Holland and back to France in a few hours.  
Our Dutch friends, Christ and Elise, prefer the French side and I can see why. 
The Dutch side is busier, there is more traffic, the big cruise ships stop there 
so the main street is very much like St Thomas or Nassau. It's also full of 
Burger Kings, KFCs, Domino's and big stores like a Mega ACE which we duly 
visited.  The views are spectacular but it was very windy and the beaches did 
not look inviting. So we went back around to the French side where they were 
much more protected. Also Anguila is right in front so I guess that helps to 
calm the seas down. 
Since we had had lunch on one of the beaches where we think we may go and 
anchor, on the way back we stopped at our boulangerie and grabbed a couple of 
baguettes so that we could have a "light" dinner with just cheese, pate and wine 
(and an eclair we had left over from the day before, this is going to kill me!). 

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Tuesday, January 11, 2011

The fleet

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Marina days in St. Maarten.

The weather forecasts predicted very high winds for the three days following our arrival in St. Martin, so we decided to come into the marina to be on the safe side. Unfortunately the marina advertises services it does not have. It's not an expensive marina even though it caters to humongous power boats (34 euros a day), but the cable is not working, they have to call the company; the internet is terrible, really terrible, there are only two washers and two driers, one of each is not working. I imagine the gigantic boats, with thousands of powerful balls do not need either cable, or internet or washer and driers, and they pay much more, so voilá! And the truth is they are really incredible, there must be about ten of the really big ones, and 4 gigantic sailboats, (over a 100ft long) super luxurious, plus huge catamarans, over 60ft, floating homes. We look tiny. We had to moor stern to and hold on to a mooring ball in front. Getting in and out of the boat requires great acrobatic skills. Since I don't have them, I would not be surprised if I end up falling in the water again, only this time I will make sure I am not carrying my phone.
We have been walking around Marigot and stuffing ourselves with baguettes and pastries (at least we try to walk them off but I think the pastries are winning) and practicing our French, even Juan who's been bandying "bon jours" and ça va? left and right.  Lots of people smoking, which always surprises me, men in speedos and very good looking women. Several Eastern European groups (like the ones dancing in their bikinis which thankfully left the next day!) Tomorrow we are going to rent a car and visit the island. We are also trying to find an electrician to look at our setup, we were told of somebody very good, we called him and he's very busy but would try to come today at 4 pm, he didn't. So tomorrow we will try somebody else.